Eat Well. Travel Often.

Three Random Moments in Le Maroc

Just messing around with the little ones. 

Getting the kiddies fired up! Well, maybe, just a little…

Me and my regional manager, Mina. Love her!

It’s that “time” again!

Day light savings time part one of four occurred last week. I tried my schedule on new time instead of old time for three days, but decided I liked old time better so in true Moroccan form I will not observe the time change because, well, frankly, I just don’t want to…

So now I have a 50% chance of being early or late to anything unless I specifically clarify the meeting time. 

#livinontheedge #mymoroccanlife #Iwillnevergetawaywiththisinamurrica

Black and White this is not

Hey all, 

I had one blog post in mind for tonight but it will have to wait because something more important has come up, and I’d like to discuss…

Today a group of Italians including my friend Elena performed as clowns for multiple groups of children around the Ouarzazate area. At the last school, after the performance was done, the clowns got together to bow and make their exit. Instead of bowing forwards and ending, they proceeded to do a 180 turn, back up toward the kids and shake their butts a little. A few minutes later Elena is bending over to play with one of the smaller kids, and as she does this a young boy grabs her butt almost inserting his finger into her vagina, according to her. 

Naturally, she reacts by shaming the boys (in multiple languages), calling over the other adults in charge, and having them deal with the boys personally. In the end one of the six or so boys that are accused of being involved tearfully apologizes to her despite the fact that he swore he didn’t do it. After all the boys leave Rachid, Elena’s new husband, basically says to her in an accusatory tone that she and the other clowns should not have put their butt in the kids’ faces because that is what probably provoked the incident. Elena, on defense at this point disagrees with him saying that clowns are funny, and whether or not she shook her butt a little or not, the personal violation still would have happened because young boys will be boys, just like men that have done similar things to her on occasion were being men. 

Their different positions on this incident are what I’d like to talk about, but before I begin I want to lay down a few important points:

-First of all I want to say that Rachid is a very good man, and even though he may blame Elena for what happened, it’s not because he’s some sexist, macho man or anything like that. He loves her, and he’s one of the more progressive Moroccan men I’ve met in country. 

-The group of clowns was mixed with both men and women.

-The group of youth present were elementary school level, and the boys at the center of this were probably between the ages of 10 and 13. 

-Nothing like this has ever happened to me, and I don’t believe it is a regular occurance for the majority of female PCVs.

So where do I fall on this spectrum of who is right and who is wrong? Well to be honest I agree with both on some level, but I lean toward Rachid, disagreeing with him on what important issue: who is to blame?

When I saw the clowns bend over, butts in the air hovering over the kids’ faces the first time, my immediate reaction was a raised eyebrow, and I was thinking, well that’s a toe over the line toward inappropriate. Now I know this may sound like something harmless to you, the western reader, but the fact is after being in this country for so long, and having had cultural rules drilled into my head 24/7 for the first 2 months of my service, thinking like a Moroccan has become second nature for me. I notice so many things now that would have never given me pause when I lived in the US, especially when it comes to foreigner/Moroccan interactions. I told Elena that I agreed with her that what happened could have happened regardless of whether she bent over or not, HOWEVER, it is equally possible that her bending over put the idea into the minds of the boys and presented an opportunity for them to do what they did. And in this male-dominated country a self-created unnecessary opportunity should be avoided at all costs because it just heightens the possibility that something will occur.

Elena made the mistake of holding on to her Italian standards of what is appropriate and what is not despite the Moroccan/conservative Islamic setting she was in. Morocco is not as conservative as most other countries, but still there is a line, and it’s very easy to cross when you are a western woman with western ideals. I know she knows that because of the religious culture, boys/young men/men are forced to conceal their desires toward women and that makes them more likely to  exhibit inappropriate behavior of a sexual nature, especially toward western women who are perceived to be “easy” and without morals. And I should clarify that “inappropriate behavior” as I’m using it can mean anything from a catcall to full on groping like Elena experienced.

To Rachid, my brother, I have to disagree that this is entirely Elena’s fault if that’s what you really think. Whether she bent over in front of the boys or not, the fact is she is an individual, they are individuals. Each has a mind of his or her own, each should know the difference between what is right and what is wrong. Each do. I’m sure of it. At their age those boys know what’s appropriate and what isn’t because certainly they were raised to know that touching a woman in that way could land them in jail, or put them on the receiving end of serious vigilante justice (more likely). Would they touch their mother or their sister that way? No. The answer is emphatically NO. They know the difference. So does Elena’s bending over justify what one of them did and what all them schemed to do? No. It. Does. Not. 

Let me make another example: If a girl wearing western clothes is walking down the street at 9pm, and some man comes along and rapes her who is at fault? In the twisted Moroccan court of law (and general way of thinking) most men and women will probably say the victim brought it upon herself because she was walking too late at night, or her jeans were too tight, or whatever. That may be the case but the overriding factor is individual will. One human took advantage of another human without consent and violated her. That is not her fault no matter where she was, who she was with, what time it was, what she was wearing, or anything else. People are endowed with the ability to choose between right and wrong good and evil. We in the west have figured this out (not that we don’t have our moments where we fail from time to time: *cough Chris Brown/Rihanna cough*) but you all over here in MENA, and other developing parts of the world have not. 

I can see how it might be hard for Rachid to see this point of view initially because he is thinking from how he was socialized. Still, I’ve said my long-winded piece, and this is an issue with a lot of gray area. I hope they both can read this and learn something, and maybe you all did too. 

Colorful Perspectives: Nthando in Maroc

Hey everyone! Here is the latest guest post in the CP series. This one comes from my friend Nthando Thandiwe, a Black PCV from Atlanta, Georgia. Nthando lives about 2 hours north, north west of me in a small town on the road to the bigger city Errachidia.   

 

My Journey into Morocco

It was my first visit to Asilah, but I was already enjoying this beautiful beachside city.  Along the coast of northern Morocco only an hour away from Tangier and so close to Spain it combined Arab and Spanish influences from its architecture to its language.  It was quite a change of pace from my usual desert dwellings, but I was eager to be exploring other places in Morocco.  Not to mention it was also famous for its murals that artist painted around the city and changed annually.  But as I was walking down one of he main streets, where vendors’ merchandise enveloped the street, I was simply looking for some figs.  One of the benefits of living in the south of Morocco is the bountiful quantity of fresh fruit in season.  I had already bought some fresh fish for dinner (which I would later prepare and leave me sick and incapacitated for the next day, but never-the-less delicious) and I planned on buying a watermelon later but now I was focused on buying some figs.  I noticed a guy with fresh crates of figs laid out before him.  As I approached to take closer inspection, an older woman walked up as well to take a closer look.  I inquired as to the price of the figs and he replied, ten Dirham’s (8.47 MAD = 1 USD).  Since they are in season I know I can get them cheaper.  And considering I usually pay about six or seven Dirham’s in my site, I just walk away from the stand.  However the woman stays and agrees and starts to pick out what she wanted.  As I am walking away the merchant leans over gets my attention by saying “Xuya! (Brother!)” and then he whispers “Tymna (Eight) Dirham’s”, while avoiding the lady still picking out figs.  So I walk back to his stand and start loading up a kilo of figs.  I chuckle to myself as I walk away with my bags of food.  It doesn’t happen often that I can get lower prices than natives, but it’s nice a nice occurrence. 

After living in Morocco for almost a year I have come to appreciate the culture, language and people.  Learning the language goes a long way especially when people assume you know it.  I welcome the opportunity as it allows me to integrate into the culture as few other volunteers can.  While other volunteers complain about harassment or unwanted attention, I pretty much fly under the radar and even get better deals on figs.  When natives figure out I’m not Moroccan I am usually greeted with interest and curiosity about American culture and myself.  I find these are the best opportunities to engage in discussion and have an exchange of cultures.  Which are usually accompanied by cups of tea, bread and curiosity.  While doing enrichment activities with the youth, planting trees and organizing events in the community are great and an integral part of Peace Corps.  My most rewarding experience has been in my daily interactions of meeting new people and learning a new language. 

Throughout my journey, I have been supported and inspired by many people, including my parents, former bosses, community members and friends.  I’m unsure where the initial idea to Join Peace Corps originated, but I’ve always wanted to travel overseas.  After finishing my Bachelors Degree at Stanford University I was ready for a different challenge. The most attractive idea to me was to live, work and be immersed in a foreign environment.  Something that was impossible to do in the U.S.  Folks always ask me will I stay, and live here longer than the required 2 years and I can honestly say I don’t know.  While I do love this country, it does have its fair share of problems and future development that needs to happen.  I believe it’s imperative that people, especially young African Americans be involved in volunteerism.  The Peace Corp is only one avenue to pursue this.  While the idea to live overseas isn’t appealing to everyone, it’s still important to contribute to your community wherever you live.  If the idea of donating your time someplace overseas is alluring, then I would recommend Peace Corps.  As diverse as America is the Peace Corps has yet to catch up, as I am the only African American male in our stage of 120.  The African and American experience lay in such stark contrast that to be a part of both cultures is truly an auspicious opportunity.  And if by any chance you find yourself in Morocco, Marhaba! (Welcome!) 

An Assilah mural. (Not pictured, Nthando.)

*Stage means group. Nthando was the only Black male in our incoming March 2012 group. There are a handful of other Black PCV males serving in Morocco, but compared to the 250+ volunteers we have currently the number is noticeably small.